OUR second day in the heritage city of Vigan, Ilocos Sur, was our fullest day ever in terms of grounds covered – despite it being besieged by a heavy downpour that just wouldn’t let up. Typhoon Jose was rampaging at that time, and its playground was the Northern tip of the country, thus bringing Southwest monsoon rains to the Province of Ilocos.
It started very early for my husband Raff, who woke up before dawn to join good friend Fernan Nebres of Philippine Star in taking pictures of Calle Crisologo as it transformed from night to dawn to day.
Breakfast was at Casa Caridad, the home of our host, Hotel Felicidad consultant Jose ‘Bonito’ Singson. We took a leisurely walk from Hotel Felicidad, located at the corner of V. delos Reyes and Florentino Streets, to the nearby ancestral home of the Singsons, and was greeted by a sumptuous breakfast buffet spread in the dining room. There were platters of deboned tuyo with capers in olive oil, smoked fish, egg white omelette, sinanglaw (a flavorful soup of beef innards) and steamed rice.
After being fully “charged” by a hearty breakfast, the group got on the way on its tour of Vigan’s heritage sites and tourist attractions.
SYQUIA MANSION
Since it was still raining, our itinerary first focused on indoor attractions in the city, such as the Syquia Mansion. Constructed in 1830, it was the ancestral home of Doña Alicia Syquia, who married the Philippines’ second president, President Elpidio Quirino, in 1921. Thus, this house, also known as Bahay na Bato, became the home of the Philippine president and was considered as the first Malacañang of the North.
Located at the corner of Calle Quirino and Calle Salcedo, the Syquia Mansion is still basically the original structure that it used to be, lined with piedra China rocks or stones from China that were used to balanced ships, and American machuka tiles. Like other ancestral homes of prominent families during that time, the house had peeping holes in the ante-sala to give the owners of the house a look at guests who are at the door and decide whether or not they want to let the guests in. Lining the walls of the receiving area are replicas of Juan Luna paintings done by Luna’s sister in 1910, including the Blood Compact and Spolarium. The grand piano, which dates back to 1910 and is still in good playing condition, has keys made of ivory.
The bedroom of the house is one of the most interesting places of the house, as it showcases an intricately carved wooden bed that had no nails.
ADVENTURE ZONE
When the rain let up a bit, our tour companions, Mia and Kat of Hotel Felicidad, took advantage of the improving weather and brought the group to the Adventure Zone, which is located to the South of Vigan.
A mountainous area of Ilocos Sur facing Abra, with the Abra River crossing it, the Adventure Zone features a zipline and wall climbing facilities. The zipline crosses the river, first in a seated position, then coming back in a Superman position, so that you cross the river twice on zipline. You also have the option of launching off alone or in a tandem, but coming back is a strictly one-person-at-a-time affair.
PINAKBET FARM
It was drizzling again when the group left the Adventure Zone, and the coaster headed West to bring us to Caoayan, Ilocos Sur, where we were to have lunch at The Pinakbet Farm.
The Pinakbet Farm has been gaining a good following from tourists, both foreign and local, in recent months because it offers a sumptuous lunch at a price that offers good value for money. The restaurant has a pavilion-type al fresco dining area lined with long wooden tables and benches. For Php200 per head, Pinakbet, a medley of vegetables cooked in bagoong (shrimp paste) and is a classic Ilocano dish, is served in a long bamboo container at the table. Diners also get to enjoy grilled chicken, liempo and tilapia with seaweed salad, rice and soda in unlimited amounts. Although the food is not laid out on a buffet table, diners can ask the servers to replenish their food and ask for more rice, chicken, liempo or tilapia.
At the end of their meal, a cultural show is presented by the staff in native costumes. The cultural show tells a story of courtship and marriage in songs, starting with novelty songs such as Pinakbet Song, Ti Ayat Ti Maysa Nga Ubing and Manang Biday to love songs like Pamulinawen, Hello Love, Abalayan, Isem and Dungdongwen Kanto to more contemporary pieces that include Awitin Mo at Isasayaw Ko and Kahit Maputi Na ang Buhok Ko. Towards the end, the performers present a dance number, tinikling, and ask for audience participation.
The Pinakbet Farm also features a fishing area, where diners can go fishing for tilapia and have their fresh catch cooked.
CRISOLOGO MUSEUM
Next stop was the Crisologo Museum right in the heart of Vigan. Just a stone’s throw away from Calle Crisologo, the Crisologo Museum is the ancestral house of the late Congressman Floro Crisologo. Founder of the Social Security System (SSS), the late congressman was shot and assassinated at the St. Paul Cathedral, where he instantly expired, in 1970.
A native of Vigan, Crisologo was among the brave fighters who subdued the last remaining rampart of Japanese resistance in Bassang Pass, Cervantes, Ilocos Sur.
His house was transformed into a museum to house his memorabilia after his death.
PLAZA MAESTRO CONVENTION CENTER
After leaving the historically rich confines of the Crisologo Museum, we made a quick stop at the Plaza Maestro Convention Center along Florentino St. in Vigan. A newly constructed venue for parties and conventions, including weddings, reunions and debuts, Plaza Maestro Convention Center is a two-story structure made up of ballrooms and function rooms of different sizes to meet the various venue needs of Ilocanos in Vigan.
- Plaza Maestro Convention Center will now play host to private parties on special occasions
